Tuesday, February 19, 2008

'Tis the season to drink...

Strawberries are not in season right now. Blood oranges are. Blood oranges, kumquats and pomegranates. Running a bar that reflects our chef's local and seasonal inclinations is not the easiest task I've undertaken. Most people who come to the bar in February and order Mojitos never thought of the idea of drinking seasonally, but if you ever did stop to think about how much better and fresher blood oranges are right now in new England than any bunch of mint or strawberry you could pick up at the supermarket, you know what I mean. I drank seasonally even before I knew chef Steve's seasonal menus. I used to indulge in Gin in the spring, specially when I lived on Martha's Vineyard, and saved my Whiskey for the cold winter months, specially when I lived in New York. Above 30º C, there is nothing quite like rum.
Beer drinkers are aware of the difference that it makes to have the right drink in the right season, mostly because beer does not have the shelf life of spirits and it has to be consumed shortly after it's bottled. Wine lovers and their object d'amour are almost always connected by the general environment in which wine is consumed. Opening a bottle of still rosé in the winter is like wearing a fur coat to the beach...or like Mojitos in the snow. To that end we have replaced the beloved (but summery) Lolita with a cocktail created by our bartender Chris O'Neil called "Siren". It has our house-made meyer-lemon Limoncello, combined with Spanish Licor 43 and fresh squeezed blood orange juice. It hits the same tart-sweet notes in the palate that the strawberry liqueur and Champagne hit with the Lolita but the aromatics are more winter citrus/vanilla-caramel.
Meanwhile, my lemon-basil plant has dried (and probably died), and my thyme is just hibernating (I hope). The concord grapevine outside my window was covered in snow this morning but somehow, someone is going to walk into to the bar today and have the audacity to order a Mojito.